Oct
16
Cambodia, Je T’Aime
When I came here for the first time three years ago to see the majestic and pre-historic temples of Angkor, I never anticipated that I would return so soon, much less fall so deeply in love with this country… I won’t lie; it is far from paradise on Earth, though they say beauty is in the eye of the beholder… From the distant glorious past to the not-so-remote bloodshed of millions, this country has seen its share of victories and loss on a scale unimagined by most. It is not for the faint of heart, nor for the five star resort seeking elites who expect their every whim to be catered to, while soaking up their Mai Tai’s in pristine, fully hygienic surroundings, all the while disingenuously ignoring the mosaic of hope and desperation that surrounds them… Far from it, this is a country best reserved for the courageous, the honest and most of all, for those who believe in the best that humanity has to offer…
Cambodia is a gastronomic delight, which was one of the biggest surprises to lie in store for me. While everyone is familiar with Thai cuisine, most of us have never tasted Cambodian, as diverse, mind numbingly complex in flavors and delicious as it is. While I admit to eating at a few Western restaurants (including the Cantina), the absolutely hands down BEST meals I had here cost exactly a dollar. Though to get this kind of price, you will have to consciously avoid tourist traps and eat WITH the locals, something most of you will be unable or unwilling to do; this is where the courage I spoke of earlier comes in handy. From rice noodle soup with meatballs, soy sprouts, chili sauce and lime, to baguettes filled with pork pate, green onion, tomato and pickles, to the noodles with beef and green pepper, to last but not least, the unbelievably strong coffee and wondrous variety of baked goods (the last two, owing to the former colonial influence of the French), this country is an undiscovered wonder.
While I spent most of my time in the chaotic, noisy yet still quite captivating capital of Phnom Penh dodging the city’s infamous three way traffic, which produce sneaky left turns, as a rule are made directly INTO oncoming traffic, I also had a great time hanging out along the Sisowath Quay, the river promenade of the city. Another highlight was clubbing in the Heart of Darkness, a formerly infamous spot that has improved significantly since the overhaul a few years back, and now regularly hosting Western DJs, spinning very danceable electro. Of course, if you’re in the mood for something more casual, stop in at Sharky’s, one of the oldest rock & roll bars in SE Asia, and shoot some pool (billiards) – you’re guaranteed to make some new friends very quickly, though perhaps it won’t be to everyone’s taste! Speaking of which, I had to check out Sihanoukville on the country’s southwestern coast, though I can’t recommend it. The waters are murky, making snorkeling a bit of a miss; the beaches are strewn with trash (with the exception of Bamboo Island, which I DO recommend); the locals are a just a tad too pushy; the running water smells like rust; flies overrun the place and the pedophile pimps offering their children on the beach were the absolute last straw contributing to making my stay short and (mostly) unenjoyable.
Truth is, this country is still quite poor and underdeveloped, all a direct consequence of the darkest chapter of its history, the Khmer Rogue. They ruled the country with an iron fist during the 70’s, when even my beloved US sadly (and ignorantly) supported and financed their rise, thinking they would serve as a lever against the Viet Cong to the East. The KR led a brutal campaign against its own people, but what’s truly unfathomable to me is that Pol Pot, its leader took absolutely no mercy on his VERY OWN people, imprisoning and assassinating the best and brightest this country had to offer, including anyone who could have possibly usurped him. This included anyone with a university education, speaking French speaking or having the gall to wear eye glasses. They were simply hauled away, often along with their entire families in tow. S21, Phnom Penh’s most infamous site not unlike Auschwitz, was an experience I’d rather not repeat. I held up OK for most of the tour, until I read that contrary to Buddhist beliefs, the people killed and tortured here were never allowed to have a proper cremation ceremony performed by monks, meaning the heartless, dare I say demonic bastards of the KR condemned their souls to roam the Earth as ghosts in search of elusive peace forever. I said a prayer to God first, followed by lighting three incense sticks and bowing to Buddha in front of the golden bell, holding some remains. Let us just say that it was all testament to how STUPID humans can be, particularly when we allow ourselves to be fooled into extreme nationalism of any kind at the expense of the innocent. Truth be told, Cambodia is entirely too much to absorb, too sad for words and yet its people optimistic like you’ve never seen… it may be Thailand’s poor cousin for now, but Cambodia certainly stole a piece of this barang’s heart. Perhaps it’s best if you come see it for yourself…
All photos © of Nick Taylor & The Two Halves blog, 2010
